Before the Incas - a Journey through Peru’s most Mysterious Empires with Tanit Trails
For travellers in search of the secrets of ancient Peru, the mystical trio of the Sacred Valley, Cusco and Machu Picchu rightfully holds its place in the pantheon of bucket-list travel goals. Yet, if you only visit these well-known sights, you miss some of the country’s most ancient wonders - the mysterious empires and unfamiliar histories of Pre-Incan civilisations whose traces stretch back many thousands of years. Let Tanit Trails DMC, take you now deep into the country’s less-charted wonders and less-touristy regions, to show you Peru’s pre-Incan treasures.
The history of Peru is one of great civilisations, development and migration, all layered over the centuries to create a rich cultural melting pot irresistible to those with adventure in their soul. And in the northern reaches of Peru, the little-known stories of the earliest ancestors are ripe for discovery.
High on the Pacific coast, where the bustling cities of Trujillo and Chiclayo thrive, a scattering of key archaeological sites are surrounded by modern-day agriculture, their echoes whispering through the little farming villages and their fields of asparagus, sugar cane and avocados. In these fertile coastal valleys, where the delicate balance between fishing and agriculture survives to this day, a succession of civilisations grew and fell over centuries, the legacies of peoples like the Moche and Chimú intertwining and overlapping until the rise of the Incas around 1200 BCE.
We asked our friends at Tanit Trails, the brilliant Peruvian experts whose immersive, sustainable, slow-travel itineraries dive deep into the country’s less-charted wonders and untamed regions, to help us unveil the country’s pre-Incan treasures. And, of course, they’ve come up trumps with an exploration that begins and ends in vibrant Lima, taking in all the archaeological delights of Northern Peru on the way.
The Ancient World of Trujillo
From Lima, a flight to Trujillo is just a short 1hr 15 hop north up the coast. Known as the City of Everlasting Spring, this famous regional capital is renowned for its contribution to Peru’s incredible cultural history, offering a fascinating blend of colonial heritage and pre-Columbian heritage. It’s said that Don Diego de Almagro, stopping here on his way to Pachacamac in 1534, declared this spot a “promising place and suitable for founding a city”, naming it for the birthplace of Francisco Pizarro. And, like the countless civilisations who called this place home before him, he was right - the clement weather and fertile land, ideal for sugar cane, have made sure that Trujillo never had to worry about money. Instead, with a reputation as a hotbed of revolt, thoughts here turned to politics and life’s grander schemes, its inhabitants fiercely independent and quick to rise in defence of their beliefs - from the Inca rebellions through Peruvian independence to the revolutions of the 20th Century. All this goes to make Trujillo a fascinating visit for anyone interested in all aspects of Peru's history.
And so, the first day can be happily spent exploring this fascinating city. Accompanied by a private guide, a stroll through the streets of Trujillo passes many statues of independence heroes as well as an array of architectural marvels, from grand mansions like Casa Urquiaga (whose famous inhabitants include Simon Bolivar) to meticulously preserved churches and the Plaza de Armas, whose elegant palm trees provide a shady spot to admire the heart of the city.
Huaca de la Luna, Huanchaco and Chan Chan - Trujillo’s Celestial Temple and Coastal Legacy
A night of pure relaxation under the clearest night sky heralds a day of ancient adventure. On the outskirts of Trujillo, the six-level site of Huaca de la Luna, the Temple of the Moon, transports visitors to the heart of the Moche civilization. Once the ancient political centre, the temple was built over 200 years during the Moche empire, its intricate and well-preserved murals depicting deities (including Dios Degollador - the decapitator!) and mythological creatures, and its stones bearing witness to a civilization shrouded in mystery and their ancient belief systems.
After a private guided tour of the site and the museum, a 30-minute drive heads on to Huanchaco, a friendly ancient fishing village that is now very popular with surfers. Here, fishermen still use the famous Caballitos de Tortora (Tortora reed boats), vessels which have navigated the waters of the Andes for millenia. These iconic watercrafts are constructed using age-old techniques passed down through generations, their curved hulls and simple yet effective design offering a glimpse into the maritime traditions of pre-Columbian civilisations.
Huanchaco is the gateway to the vast (20 square km) archaeological site of Chan Chan, once the capital of the Chimú Empire. A local lunch overlooking the ocean is the perfect way to fortify for an exploration of the labyrinthine alleys and towering walls of this, the largest adobe city in the world as well as the largest pre-Incan urban centre. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Chan Chan is believed to once have housed 50,000 people within its towering walls, their intricate reliefs of geometric figures and animals still intact. Surrendered to the conquering Incas around 1470, the Chimú political and administrative centre sprawled across 1,000km of the Pacific coast at its height, with more than twelve citadels and a maze of ceremonial plazas and ancient homes and gardens to discover. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a wonderful glimpse into the architectural grandeur and organisational prowess of one of South America's most formidable pre-Columbian civilisations - the perfect way to round off this day of exploration.
Ancient Priestesses on the road to Chiclayo - El Brujo
Leaving Trujillo, it’s time to head further north to Chiclayo - and on the way, this route passes one of Tanit Trails’ all-time favourite Peruvian sites, El Brujo.
Leaving the fertile plains of Trujillo behind, this part of the La Libertad region is characterised by its arid climate, a coastal desert landscape where the sun beats down on sandy plains and rugged hills, and views stretch out across the endless Pacific. Rising from these striking surroundings, the ancient archaeological site of El Brujo sits near the town of Magdalena de Cao in the Chicama Valley. Dating back over 1,500 years, El Brujo served as a prominent ceremonial hub for the Moche and was built in several phases between 100 and 700 AD, each phase constructed on top of the last - which, luckily for us, helped preserve every stage for posterity. Here, three main stepped pyramids - Huaca Prieta, Huaca El Brujo, and Huaca Cao Viejo - reveal layers of intricate architecture and fabulous murals, which (thanks to the dry climate) are some of the best-preserved reliefs in Peru. Of the three, Huaca Cao Viejo is the prime focal point, with its vivid polychrome reliefs of mythical figures, deities and scenes of ritualistic ceremonies.
It was in this pyramid that the well-preserved mummy of the Lady of Cao, a powerful Moche priestess and ruler, was discovered in 2006, her elaborately adorned tomb offering unprecedented insights into Moche society. Visitors to El Brujo are transported back in time as they explore the remnants of this ancient civilisation, wandering through courtyards, plazas and ceremonial platforms and gaining a rare insight into the spiritual beliefs, societal structure and artistic achievements of the Moche people.Today, El Brujo stands as a testament to the ingenuity and cultural sophistication of pre-Incan Peru, an unmissable and enduring legacy rising from the heat of the desert sands.
On to Chiclayo - the City of Friendship and Witch Doctors
After a simple, authentic and delicious lunch at one of Pacsamayo’s hidden culinary gems, a road tour north arrives in Chiclayo in the late afternoon. Peru’s fourth largest city and the capital of verdant Lambayeque, Chiclayo was founded in the 16th century as the hub of vital trade routes between the coast, the highlands and the deep jungle.
Today an energetic economic and cultural hub, Chiclayo’s inhabitants are rightly proud of the warm welcome they offer visitors in this self-styled “Peruvian City of Friendship”. In the city itself, the vibrant markets are a must-see, with the aromas of fresh spices and produce on the air and the lively chatter of vendors and shoppers making for a captivating experience - the Mercado Modelo and Mercado Moshoqueque in particular are treasure troves of local crafts, textiles and ceramics. Chiclayo's culinary scene is equally enticing, with traditional dishes such as ceviche, arroz con pato and seco de cabrito celebrating the best of the region’s flavours, whether travellers choose to eat at street-side eateries or upscale restaurants.
But it’s the ancient and the mystical that brings many visitors to Chiclayo. History buffs are drawn to Chiclayo for its proximity to a treasure trove of archaeological wonders, including the iconic Royal Tombs of Sipán (more on this below!). And here too, those intrigued by the other-worldly need to add time to their schedule to learn about the local tradition of witch doctors, known as "curanderos," who retain an important place in the cultural fabric of the region alongside modern medicine. These healers draw upon a blend of indigenous beliefs, shamanic practices and Catholic ritual to address a variety of physical, emotional and spiritual ailments, combining herbal remedies, rituals, prayers and blessings to help heal everything from physical illnesses to spiritual afflictions.
Tucume - the Valley of Pyramids
In the morning, a private guide and car are waiting to take travellers to Tucume, the ceremonial centre of the Lambayque (or Sicán) culture from 1,000 to 1,375 AD. Dubbed the "Valley of Pyramids," this ancient complex boasts 26 adobe structures that rise from the desert landscape like ancient sentinels, bearing silent witness to the mystique of the region’s cultural heritage. Each one offers a glimpse into the architectural prowess and societal complexities of this ancient civilisation, from their intricate carvings to the ornate decorations adorning their weathered facades. Awareness of this sprawling site was boosted greatly by the work of the Norwegian ethnographer Thor Heyerdahl, famous for his adventurous spirit and unconventional theories, who conducted extensive research here in the 1980s.
Seeking to prove that pre-Columbian civilizations could have travelled or traded over vast distances across the oceans, and particularly intrigued by the similarities between the pyramids of Tucume and those found in Egypt and Mesopotamia, his interest in Tucume stemmed from its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and its rich archaeological heritage. Although Heyerdahl's theories may have sparked debate among scholars, his contributions to the exploration of Tucume and his efforts to unravel the mysteries of ancient civilizations left a lasting legacy, inspiring future generations of researchers and adventurers to delve deeper into the secrets of this incredible site.
After exploring the labyrinthine alleys and plazas that crisscross the archaeological site, and taking in the breathtaking panorama from Cerro Purgatorio, small paths lead visitors on, winding through villages and homesteads to Huaca Las Balsas, one of the pyramids in the valley. Fascinating because of its name, which means "rafts" in Spanish, Huaca Las Balsas reflects the belief that the pyramid's construction was inspired by the shape of pre-Columbian reed boats and is exquisite evidence of ancient maritime expertise.
After a mouthwatering lunch at Restaurante El Cántara in Lambayeque, a little town near Chiclayo that was one the region’s main centre, a trip to the Museo Nacional Sican reveals more of the secrets of this bygone culture, from the craftsmanship of ancient metallurgists to stunning funerary masks; the remains of the Lord of Sicán (buried upside down in a foetal position beside two women and two youth) to beautifully ornate jewellery found in the "Tomb of the Lord of Sipán's Wife" at Huaca Loro.
The Tombs of Huaca Rajada
Huaca Rajada, located near the town of Sipán, gained international acclaim with the discovery of one of the most significant archaeological finds of the 20th century: the Tomb of the Lord of Sipán. This ancient burial site, uncovered in 1987 by Peruvian archaeologist Walter Alva, revealed a treasure trove of artefacts belonging to a Moche nobleman - an array of precious objects that included intricately crafted gold and silver jewellery, ceremonial weapons, pottery and textiles. These artefacts provided unparalleled insights into the wealth, craftsmanship and religious beliefs of the Moche civilization, capturing the world's imagination and shedding new light on the sophistication and complexity of Moche culture, rituals and power dynamics. With excavations still ongoing, an exploration of the site and its museum reveals not only this, but also the latest tomb found here, known as that of the Warrior Priest.
After, it’s time for lunch at Tanit Trails’ very favourite restaurant and arguably the best in Northern Peru, Fiesta by Hector Solis, where Chef Solis turns the region's food into gourmet delicacies. Full and satisfied, it’s time to close this exploration of the north with a guided tour of the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, whose daring, angled architecture recreates the vibe of a Moche temple. Here visitors trace the footsteps of ancient rulers, immersed in a narrative of conquest, ceremony and cultural exchange. The museum now provides a safe home to the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, buried 1,700 years ago and one of 13 discovered by Dr Walter Alva at Huaca Rajada in 1987, as well as a recreation of the site in its heyday, eight more important tombs and a wide variety of treasures, all providing invaluable clues to the royal Moche and their opulent culture.
Tracing Lima's past and present
What better way to end this tour than by setting the scene with a day of culture in Lima?
Dynamic and historic in equal measure, Lima's heritage is often overlooked, yet here you can find a dazzling array of sights—from monuments three times as old as Machu Picchu and collections of ancient gold, silver, and Moche ceramics to the colonial Old Quarter, a UNESCO Mankind Heritage Site that was originally mapped out by Pizarro himself, levelled by an earthquake in 1746, and rebuilt as it is today.
Scattered throughout the city, the ancient clay mounds known as huacas (“sacredness” in the Quechua language) were built by the Lima people as far back as 200 AD and, with over 300 listed as landmarks, can still be found in almost every neighbourhood today. Some of these sacred centres, once places of stargazing and sacrifice, are in better condition than others - like the most iconic, the Huaca Pucllana, which sits at the heart of the Miraflores district and holds both a museum and a restaurant inside its well-preserved adobe walls.
Next to the Government Palace and Francsico Pizarro’s mansion, Casa de Aliaga, a 500-year old, 66 room house, is the oldest continuously inhabited home in Latin America, which has stayed in the family of conquistador Jeronimo de Aliaga for 17 generations.
And for those in search of the city’s heritage, a visit to Larco Herrera museum is a must. Housed in an 18th century mansion set in stunning gardens, this unique place boasts an exceptional collection of ancient Peruvian gold and silver, a world-renowned treasure trove of Moche ceramics (including the infamous erotic ceramics) and textiles, jewellery and stonework that tell tales of a variety of pre-Columbian civilisations.
Where to stay in Lima?
Tanit Trails love the fabulous Hotel B, the city’s only Relais & Châteaux hotel. This luxurious boutique hotel is housed in a beautifully restored Belle Epoque mansion in the exclusive Barranco district, a protected historic area that sits on the Pacific coast. Renovated by sculptors from the Fine Arts Academy and Italian artisan cabinetmakers, this is a sumptuous place of marble and exotic woods, whose open balconies open to the white stucco façade and whose double-height ceilings are lit by Liman skylights known as "teatinas" for a unique charm.
And, as you’d expect from Relais & Châteaux, the dining and drinking options are no slouch either. From the native ingredients and delicacies served up in The Dining Room to the incredible rooftop terrasse, where cocktails are served as the sun sets over the ocean, this is a wonderfully opulent way to end this Peruvian adventure.
What next?
From here, travellers can simply continue to the airport and board a flight home or for those whose exploration is not yet done, why not extend the visit to other parts of Peru? For ideas browse the library of example itineraries HERE.
Beach-loving travellers beckoned by the ocean will find heaven in Mancora at the exceptional Hotel KiChic, an exclusive boutique hotel on a private beach where relaxation goes hand-in-hand with fine cuisine and barefoot luxe is the name of the game.
Thanks to Tanit Trails’ matchless expertise in crafting epic, slow travel tours around Peru you can add or remove experiences, choose alternative accommodations and swap destinations to create a bespoke trip that surpasses your guests’ travel goals.
For more information and/or an introduction to the Tanit Trails team, get in touch today!
